African Adventures [part.four]

.January.10.11.
Today we set off on a big adventure. We were off to the home stay. We arrived in Mchezi and the kids came running. Precious!! We met Chris who is the head of the CBO and learned all about the organization and what they do for the community. They run an orphanage for children whose parents have passed away to disease. They have a tailoring program, poultry farm, home based care for HIV/AIDS patients, pig-ery farm, and a program for early childhood development. It was very interesting hearing about the different programs they have set up and over 5,000 people that benefit from this program! We then were introduced to their idea of a maize mill that they wanted to be the next project. Malawians do not have a problem coming up with ideas, but they do have a problem implementing these ideas. Thats where we come in. Throughout the afternoon we discussed costs and discovered that if implemented, we would break even within the first year! This equals a good investment! This then started the wheels turning of what we could do to help. We are currently still working with this project and are planning to start fundraisers to help pay for the mill. 
Later that afternoon we were divided up for our home stay. Jessica & I were paired with Constance, a 28 year old school teacher! She was the sweetest woman! 

She was so proud of her home and was so excited to have us there. She made us a traditional Malawian dinner of nsima, with relishes. She even brought out a special relish at the end that she had forgotten about... fish. She says, "This should still be good". I was skeptical, but tried a bite and swallowed it whole. Gross. I then downed a whole mango so I couldn't taste it anymore. Very interesting experience. She insisted that she sleep with us in the living room because she "couldn't have her guests sleep on the floor while I sleep in the bed". It was a very restless sleep, but I'm so glad we had that experience. It was so eye opening into the culture of Malawians and how they live.


The next morning Constance insisted that Jessica and I bathe together, aka splash ourselves with water and call it done. After her morning cleaning and making us breakfast, Constance took us back to the CBO house where we talked a little more about the maize mill. The kids were the best part. They loved looking at you and would giggle when you'd try to talk to them. It was such a great experience. We got back to World Camp later that afternoon and just took it easy.

.January.12.13.
Joe cooked an amazing breakfast and then we hopped back into the van and headed to the beautiful Lake Malawi, the 3rd largest lake in Africa. We stayed at Cool Runnings, ran by a superwoman, Sam. It was nice to relax by the beautiful lake. It is called the calender lake. It is 365 km long, 52 km wide and there are 12 rivers that run into it. So pretty! I loved watching the men fishing and all of the boats. A few of us went to the ciclid farm which was really neat, and then to the croc farm. Ciclids are caught in Lake Malawi and taken to the ciclid farm. They then are taken car of for a bit, then sent off to places all over the world. At the croc farm they raise the crocodiles and then kill them for their skin, that they ship off over the world. This area seemed to be more prosperous than in the city and I think it is because of the fishing industry. We had an amazing dinner and it was nice just to be able to hang out with everyone. 

The next morning we took a boat to Lizard Island (but I didn't see any lizards) and were able to snorkel around! It was so pretty! It wasn't as clear as I was expecting, but you could see some really pretty fish! We had lunch and then Sam told us about all of the programs she has set up in the community. She has a soccer team (they have to keep up their grades to be on the team), runs a health clinic at the gate, and more. She sponsors elderly people that she feeds. She implemented this program at the school teaching them to pick up a certain amount of plastic a day which they can earn money from. Then by turning in this plastic, they could raise thousands of dollars! She does not like to just give the people stuff. She like to teach them. To install a new mindset in the new generation. She was an amazing woman and very inspiring woman. 
We stopped at a market on the way back home and a few of us showed how good we were at bargaining (again, not me). Stocked up on African goods! We all had our last dinner together and packed up all our stuff! The next morning we headed off to the airport for our long journey back! 

This was an amazing experience and I am so glad I was able to go on this trip. I can say that I am a different person than when I left. I look at things differently and can't seem to get those little faces of those precious children out of the back of my mind. I truly enjoyed getting to know everyone on the trip and can say we've grown together as a family with Africa now as our bond. 


Zikomo kwambiri!! 

African Adventures [part.three]

.January.5.
Today we were able to visit Kirstof & Stacia Nordin at their home about 45 minutes outside of Lilongwe. They are peace corps volunteers and have lived here in Malawi for 15 years. They have created their home into a permaculture house. They are trying use their own lives and homes as an example to Malawians. What is permaculture you may ask? The idea began in 1984 by 2 men, Bill Mollison & David Holmgren. It is defined as the conscious design and maintenance of agriculturally productive ecosystems, which have the diversity, stability and resilience of natural ecosystems. Their motto is "Live simply so that others may simply live." They are trying to change Malawians mindsets - again, in my opinion, Malawi's biggest problem and obstacle. They make their own fertilizer, from their compost toilet and debris that they use in their maize fields, which saves money and gives them a more fruitful crop. For their maize fields, instead of planting just one row of maize, like the rest of Malawi...

they plant 3 rows together in the same bed. They plant maize on the outer 2 rows and then ground crops in the middle, like beans, potatoes, etc. These ground crops keep the maize healthier and in the end they have a bigger harvest. 

It was very interesting. All throughout their yard they have greenery and all types of plants growing that are edible. They have two 2 cement cisterns that collect rain water that they use to irrigate the crops. They have food all year round. Not one month of harvest like the rest of Malawi. They never go hungry! They have a few families that live on their land for free, but their payment is they have to use their practices in their own home. It's almost irritating in a sense that there are so many options for food but the locals see nsima as the only option. If they don't have nsima, they don't consider themselves full, and they think the meal lacks nutrition without nsima. They have the same option as the Nordins do! To never go hungry! And it's cheaper their way too! You don't have to buy fertilizer every year, which is expensive, and you reap so much more!! During a rainy season one time (people's hungriest season, because it is right before the next harvest, so they just ran out of maize from the last harvest, but can't yet reap the new one)a woman came to them begging for food. They had plenty of it and offered her some, but she refused it because they weren't eating nsima... CHANGE OF MINDSET!!

It was so neat to be able to see their home and how they live. If you're interested, check out their website, http://www.neverendingfood.org/ . We can put some of their practices into use as well!!

Afterwards, we went to the tobacco auction floor and were able to learn about the daily routine. The farmers bring their tobacco and then it is bid on and bought by companies (cash ONLY. loco.) then taken to their trucks and onto processing. 

Very informative and interesting day!

.January.6.7.8.

SAFARI!!! 

We left around 7:30 heading for Zambia!! After we got through the border/customs (craziest process ever. i love seeing all of the different customs i've been through) we were in beautiful Zambia. There were more mountains, it was more dense and the huts were different.

After riding on a dirt road for hours, we finally arrived at Croc Valley Camp in Mfuwe. Gorgeous place. It was right across the river from the park, so the animals can walk around freely. There were hippos and crocs in the river, elephants, baboons and other monkeys walking freely around the camp! So cool! Over our few days there, we went on 3 safari drives. We saw all types of animals and it was the best time!! The accommodations at Croc Valley Camp were so nice [after Joe & Ethan debugged our chateau for us :)], the food was amazing, and everyone was so hospitable. 

The morning we left, the men that own the camp talked to us about the business side of running the camp. They are really great to the community though, which was great to hear. They employ locals and they buy local which helps put money back into the villages and community. They have an awesome operation going on! Check them out at http://www.crocvalley.com/

.January.9.

Back in Lilongwe! Today we took a tour of the city center. This consisted of several things. One- we climbed up this national monument (stairs and rickety ladders. not safe and never would be allowed to do that in the states.) to the tippy top and had the most beautiful view. So fun. Two- we visited President Banda's (the first president of Malawi) tomb that had been built right by the Parliament building and the 5 star hotel being built by the Chinese. We learned a lot about Banda and his reign. Very interesting. 

That afternoon, a man named Alex from Jewish Heart for Africa came to the house to talk to us. Please watch this video that explains this awesome non-profit:

Not only does the solar panels provide electricity for the clinics, schools and orphanages, but also gives them electricity to charge their cell phones. Almost everyone has a cell phone, which is great. They skipped having the landline technology. But they have to pay to charge their phones then that money gets put back into the community to buy new parts when needed. It was great being able to hear about this non-profit in depth and what they're beginning to do in Malawi. 

photos from last post

{sweetGrace}

{my vendor at the fabric market}

{on the way to Wimbe}

{William's FIRST windmill}

 {William's Grandparents}

{arriving at the primary school}

African Adventures [part.two]

.January.3.

Last night I forced myself to stay up until 10 (a big feat) and I don't think I've ever slept so good! A small group of us went this morning to go get money exchanged (legally) and then went to the grocery store. After everyone ate we were going to go on a walking tour of 'old town' but we had to wait for the rain to stop. One of the benefits of going to Malawi during the rainy season (December-March)- everything is so lush and green! It's so beautiful! When it finally did stop, Reiner (a World Camp intern from Holland), took us out and gave us a tour around town and through a market. The vendors come up to you saying "My friend! My friend! Come look at my stall!" They love azungus (white people). 
This afternoon a beautiful woman named Grace came and spoke with us! She was a primary teacher for 26 years and now works for the Ministry of Education teaching about HIV/AIDS. Grace herself is HIV positive and she told us that she like to tell people that are also positive, that "Your life is not over!! You can still live your life!!" There is free access to drugs that fight against HIV if they chose to access it. People don't like going into these health clinics to get the medicine because then other people in their village will know that they are sick. They would rather pay for the medicine so people won't know. It seems so backwards. We ran across this throughout our time in Malawi: People need to change their mindsets in order for a change to be made.

She also talked to us about the education system in Malawi which was very interesting because it is so different than our own. There is a teacher shortage (has been ever since primary education became free) so the teacher:student ratio in rural villages is about 1:60 & in the cities is about 1:100-200. Holy cow. Another thing I found interesting was that they teach abstinence in primary schools which is so great!
Grace has the sweetest soul and I'm so glad we had the opportunity to hear from her while we were there!!


After Grace left, we took a van a little ways to a local market. And I'm talkin lo-cal. No other azungus. Anywhere. Close alleys in between wooden stalls. People everywhere. Raw fish sitting on a stand. With hundreds of flies all over them. Plus the smell of fish. And who knows what else. Trash all over the ground that you have to walk over. Being the obvious minority with everyone's eyes following you when you walked by and calling you 'Azungu!'. Completely unlike anything I've ever experienced before. I'll never forget it. We walked through the market to where they sold fabric. Beautiful African fabrics! We all tried out our hand with bargaining {aka me says okay! to whatever price they told me. i'm not a good bargainer. sad.} and learned some Chichewea basics (the language of Malawi). When we got back to the house Lolli was there. He is a tailor & is amazing. We gave him our fabric, told him what we wanted out of it (skirts, dresses, pillow cases, napkins, bags, etc.) and he can make it! He's very talented. We had some good quiche made by John (the cook for the house. sweetest man), a debriefing meeting and then off to bed! 

.January.4.

This morning we woke up and left the house at 8 headed to Wimbe Village! Wimbe is the village of William Kamkwamba, author of The Boy Who Harnessed the Wind (everyone go out and read this now. thanks. you won't regret it). Once we got on the road and out of Lilongwe, it was absolutely beautiful! So spacious & lush. Random mountains jutting up from the ground. Fields (&maize) for miles. Huts with thatch roofs. Women with baskets on their heads and babies on their backs. Men on bicycles (a main form of transportation). Villages and trading centers along the sides of the roads (with barber shops, investment bankers, vegetable stands, raw meat hanging, kids running around). So beautiful.

We picked up Blessings in Kasungu, who was William's tutor. An amazing man. (Hoping that we get the book passed for the summer reading and we can get him to Boone/first time in America!!!) Soon after we picked up Blessings we turned off the lovely paved road onto a lovely dirt one. With the most awesome hugest potholes I've ever seen. Touche Malawi. When we would drive past a village people were so excited to see us. They would wave and smile so big (usually shouting azungu! so then more people would come out), a very cool experience. 

We finally arrived in Wimbe, and headed straight to William's house. It was so cool to read about this place in his book and then actually see where things took place and to be able to meet some of his family. He unfortunately could not be there, but we were able to meet his father, some of his sisters, his cousins and his grandparents! We were invited into their home, which in Malawi is a big honor. Blessings acted as translator and it was amazing. William's dad showed us an award that William had won, and we saw his graduation picture and his picture with President Banda! You could tell that his dad was so proud. They showed us out back to William's room and the two windmills currently in their yard. The first windmill he built was moved down by Jeremiah's house, his cousin. Geoffery, another one of William's cousins, now maintains the windmills while William is at school. We were able to meet William's grandparents, which was an honor. His grandfather was born in 1919!! I would have loved to sit there for hours and hear his stories. He was a chief in a village not too far away, but William asked him to come back and live near their family. 

With William's new fame things have been donated to him and his family, such as solar panels and electricity for his whole village! Most of us brought our books, so the kids and then his family signed them, which is now priceless! Success.

We stopped at the primary school on our way out of town and it was unreal. I think that is when all of us fell in love with Malawi. Kids come out of the woodworks to see azungus! Then when you try to talk to them they get shy and laugh and smile. A thumbs up is a good go to. After a few rounds of singing, we were able to see the library where William would rent textbooks that led him to build the windmill! 

On our way back to Lilongwe, we stopped at the secondary school where Blessing's daughter attends. The school was fussing that her tuition had not been paid yet, so Blessings wanted to talk to the principle to say that he didn't have the money, but he would soon. We decided that it would be great to pay for her semester of school! So we did!! It was 8,000 kwacha which is about $50-55 USD. For a whole semester of school. SO so worth it!! 

That evening a man named Chikabachi came to give us a Chichewa lesson. He taught us some basics which was very interesting (&hard) to learn. But it makes a big difference just trying to speak the language. All about immersing yourself into the culture, including the language. 

For dinner we had our first nsima experience. The traditional dish of Malawi. Not awful, just bland and super super filling. It's just flour and water mixed together and then you eat it with different relishes. We had beans and some type of vegetable. An amazing, unforgettable day :)

Zikomo kwambiri. 

African Adventures [part.one]

It's here. It's has finally come time to put my experience into words. I honestly have been putting it off because I don't even know where to start. How do I put words to this amazing experience and do it any justice? Who knows. But I'm going to try. Partly because I want to share with you my adventures and partly because I have to for a grade :) Lets get started, shall we?


.January.1.

I arrived at the airport at 4:15am where Whitney & I flew to DC and met up with the rest of the group. We hopped on a flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. 13 hours.

 No big deal. Long flights are ridiculous. There never is enough room to actually get comfortable, especially if you're like me and have the middle seat curse. However, the screens on the back of each seat did help to pass the time. Movies, TV shows, games, music -- they have it all! Side note: If anyone is looking for a beautiful ethnic woman, go to Ethiopia. These women are gorgeous. :End side note. We arrived in Addis Ababa then had to get another plane to take us to Lilongwe. Another 6 hours of flying time. Sweet. We stopped halfway in the Congo to refuel. Crazyness. Needless to say, we were glad to get back in the air and not stay there. 

.January.2.

We finally arrived in Lilongwe in the early afternoon and were all pretty exhausted. First impression: it reminded me a lot of Nicaragua. It was hot, humid, luscious and obviously so different than North Carolina. Not like what I pictured. Previously when I thought of Africa, I thought hot, dry, dirt, cheetahs and elephants. Not the same. 

It was about an hour drive from the airport to the house, so it was a great opportunity to see some of the landscape leading into the capital of Malawi, Lilongwe. Even just from the drive into town, you can tell how significantly different of a country Malawi is. 

There were two things that stood out to me while driving into town. One: How within the first twenty minutes of being in the car, you could tell how drastic the gap was between the rich and the poor. There really is not a middle class in Malawi. We drove past several gated subdivisions with huge houses inside and then right up the road are mud houses with a thatch roof. Two: The fuel shortage. We drove past a gas station that had cars parked, lined up for miles waiting to get gas. We complain here in the United States when gas prices are rising, which is indeed a problem, but at least we are still able to get fuel when we need it. Very interesting. I found this video online that can give you an idea of what it was like:

After a tree literally falling directly in front of our van, we finally made it to the World Camp  volunteer house. World Camp is a non-profit organization that is dedicated to providing simple, sustainable solutions to the complex problems of poverty and HIV in Malawi. Our group stayed in their volunteer house in Lilongwe along with their current interns. We divided up into rooms and began to rest and unpack. It was so nice to finally be there and be done with traveling for a bit. In the capital they have electricity, but it is pretty unreliable. So the first night we didn't have power until later that evening, which was fun and an interesting problem that is often run into. Candlesticks stuck in wine bottles? Genius. A lot of us played the beloved card game, Mofia, had a debriefing meeting and finally went to bed!